Wednesday 2 September 2009

Crete... one day down, twenty to go

We arrived in Crete pretty late at night. It must have been around 11. We were all tired and ready for bed, so we got a taxi. Unfortunately our taxi driver decided to cram the three of us in with two other people. There were only four seats for five of us so Jo had to sit on my knee. We were pretty unimpressed., but we let it go. We went into our hotel only to find that the three person room we had booked was unavailable. Instead we got two two person rooms. Jo and Erin took one, and I took the other. This was fine, as I got to sleep in my underwear. Score! The girls told me I had to be up at 8, and I grumpily agreed. The next morning I woke up at the appointed time, dragged myself out of bed, showered, did my hair, and dressed. Then I read for a while. Just after 9 Erin and Jo knocked on my door. They had just got up and were ready for breakfast. Bastards! I’m kidding, of course. I actually didn’t mind sitting in my room reading. I was pretty into the book I was reading, and I was eager to finish it and start on one of my other books so I could lighten my load (I’ll just say, as a side note, that at the moment I am carting around seven novels, one massive guidebook, a journal, and a book of crossword puzzles. This is after I got rid of some books. I feel like a walking library). The breakfast at the hotel was pretty good. They had this really good bread with chocolate chips in it, and they had hard boiled eggs, which I haven’t encountered at a continental breakfast since I was in Germany.

At our hotel we found a stack of free postcards, so obviously we each took a few. Then we got a cab and headed to the bus station. It was a much more comfortable ride than the one the night before. We got our bus and had a fairly uneventful bus trip to…

Once we arrived we had a doubly pleasant surprise when our hostel owner picked us up from the station and brought us to our hostel. When we arrived he informed us that the room we had booked was not available so he was giving us an even better room. He was a very nice Cretan Canadian, originally from Montreal, who moved to Crete when he was 19. He was pleasant enough, except he kept trying to make us feel bad about only staying in Crete for one day (he said we would need at least twenty days to properly see the island. With one day we wouldn‘t even get a taste). It was a bit unnecessary, as I’m sure the three of us wish we could have stayed longer, but sometimes these things are just not possible. Because we had only limited time on the island, we decided to go to the beach and just have a relaxing day by the ocean. After a rather unpleasant interaction with the owner’s wife, we made our way down to the beach. It was quite a nice beach, though a little bit seaweedy. Jo really didn’t enjoy the seaweed, and insists she saw a snake in the water. Erin and I didn’t mind it so much. It’s like swimming in an Ontario lake. We also had lunch at a restaurant recommended to us by the hostel owner. It was pretty good. I ordered the fava bean dip again, but it wasn’t as good as in Santorini. At the end of the meal they brought us watermelon and this local shot, which was maybe the strongest alcohol I have ever tried (and I’ve tried PEI moonshine). We couldn’t stomach it for fear of projectile vomiting, but the watermelon was great!

After we’d had our fill of the beach, we headed back to our hostel to shower and get ready for supper (I know, all we did was swim and eat. It was the best time ever). We went to another place recommended by our hostel. The girls had muscles and I had chicken. None of us were overly impressed by the food, so we ended up going out for desert. I got a banana split, but they gave be strawberry icecream instead of chocolate, which was kind of a bummer. It still tasted great. Erin got this cake that was quite good. Jo shocked us all by going for the lemon pie. It wasn’t very good, and I think she regretted it in the end, but it was nice to see her throw a wrench in the spokes and change up the old routine. By the time we got back to our room it was after midnight, and we had to be up at five to get our flight to Athens. I think we managed to eke out about three hours of sleep, give or take, and next thing we knew we were pulled out of our reverie and thrown into a cab on our way to the airport. We made our flight without any glitches. We even got to sit together, which was nice because we didn’t book our tickets together. While we waited to board I went to the duty free and bought an enormous Toblerone as a surprise. I also bought three postcards. Jo could not be fooled, even when I insisted that all I had were the postcards. She’s like a chocolate detective. Luckily I was able to conceal the Toblerone for a few hours, though ultimately I ended up cracking and telling Erin about it.

We boarded our flight, but it ended up being an hour delayed. We were already pushing it with our bus to Corfu, so Jo went to investigate other means of getting there. It turns out there was another bus leaving from Pirareus at 10:30, or so we were told. We jumped in a cab (driven by the only cab driver I have ever had in Europe who drove under the speed limit). We arrived at the bus station with what we thought was plenty of time. Not so. Turns out the bus actually leaves at 10. We were five minutes late. Luckily the men at the counter offered to drive us to catch up to the bus. Jo says this is Erin’s luck, but I choose to chalk it up to my uncanny ability to be offered rides by any and everyone in my time of need (please refer to the Switzerland incident)I think I just have a naturally pathetic look about me. Anyway, we ended up making it, though I am sure everyone on the bus hated us for delaying them. We sat down and settled in for what would prove to be a very long, very hot bus ride. More on that later.

These pics are all from Erin and Jo's cameras. Apparently I took no pictures in Crete.

Jo's work of art in the sand. I still wish she had built a sand castle.

The beach in Crete. Too sandweedy for Jo's tastes, but Erin and I thought it was fine.

Erin and Jo demonstrate female affection. I don't think this was one of the times I made them hug because they were fighting. I think this one was genuine.

Sunset at the beach in Chania.

Out for supper. Check out Erin's new scarf! Just the right amount of flash, I'd say.

Santorini... I do what I want

We arrived in Santorini after a really long, hot ferry ride. Strangely, it didn't feel as long as the canal tour of Amsterdam that I took when I was still travelling with Tanya and Devinn. That trip was only an hour, but it seemed to take days. This one, while hot, smoky, and long, was at least pretty fun. We played Asshole, Rummy, Would You Rather, and of course, Marry/Boff/Kill (my favourite). It helped the time pass, especially for me, because all I had to read was Kafke, and when you are hot and tired Kafke is not what the doctor ordered. Looking back, this ferry trip went the smoothest in terms of getting to and from the ferry with relative ease (even if we did get off the subway thinking we were going in the wrong direction when we were in fact heading in the right direction. Note to self: always listen to Erin). When we got off the ferry, we arrived at the port which was packed with cars, buses, and people as far as the eye could see! This was a bit overwhelming for Erin and Jo, who have been travelling in the off season everywhere else they have gone. We found the man holding the sign for our hotel and he led us to the van. I have to interject here that we stayed at a place called Antonia’s in Fira and it was the best place I have stayed on this trip. The location was great, the room was fantastic, there was a pool, the a/c was free, and the owners of the hostel went out of their way to make sure we were enjoying ourselves. They even let us use a shower and towels hours after we had checked out. If you are heading to Santorini, do yourself a service and stay at Antonia’s. I know Jo and Erin agree with me on this (Jo even made me wait for her so we could write the hostel review together).

Anyway, we were all pretty hot and sweaty when we arrived, and there wasn’t really time to head to a beach so we were relieved to find that there was a pool literally at our doorstep. We all changed into our swimsuits and cooled off in the pool. Then I went in to shave my legs. It had been a while, and I was glad I did because we went out for dinner that night and the girls actually wore nice clothes, which is not something I have been accustomed to as of late. I could understand where they were coming from, so I sulked a bit, but then I attempted to look less like a ragamuffin than I normally find strictly necessary. They put on make-up, which they had newly purchased at Mac in preparation for the European leg of their trip. I may have stooped to put on mascara, which I had been carrying around since June, and I can count on one hand the number of times I‘ve used it.


So we were all fancy (well, I was only wearing Ole Yeller, but they looked fancy) so we decided to make our meal suit our outfits and go out someplace nice. I can’t remember the name of the restaurant we ate at (probably because it was Greek), but we went all out. We were true to the “I do what I want philosophy”. I remember the meal being delicious, but the only specific things I remember consuming were the fava bean dip (which I loved) and the local wine, which we splurged on, but which was really good as well. I’m getting a bit ahead of myself I’m afraid. Before we ate we took multiple pictures of the sunset, which was beautiful. The word on the street in Santorini is that Oia has the most beautiful sunsets, but I must say that Fira did not disappoint. Anyway, we paid for our dinner (and it was the most I have paid for a meal on this trip, but I felt like it was totally worth it… anyway, I do what I want) and then we, somewhat drunkenly, tried to navigate our way back to the hotel, while also resisting buying out all the souvenir shops along the way. We all fell into our respective beds, and in typical fashion Jo and Erin were out like lights, and I pushed through my exhaustedness and read for a bit (we found an English bookstore in Fira, so I put Kafke away for another day, in a less sunny place than Greece. Who reads Kafke at the beach… unless you’re reading Kafke on the Shore at the beach, but then that’s Murakami, so it’s a whole different thing. But I digress).
Faking it like we like eachother while the sun sets in Fira. Note the new shades on Erin and me.

The next day we all slept in (well, Jo slept in the least, in typical Jo fashion, but she still did pretty well). Jo had wanted to do a walk to Oia along the cliff, but because of our late start we didn’t have time to go to the beach and then be back in time to do the walk as well. I think she was a bit disappointed, but in the end I think it was for the best, because the bus we took to Oia kept stopping to pick up would-be walkers along the way, and that cliff-side walk is actually along a fairly treacherous road. Anyway, in the early afternoon we went to Perissa beach, which is a black sand beach. It was the first ocean beach that I had been on during this trip, so I was pretty impressed. I think Jo and Erin liked it as well, but they have seen many beautiful beaches on their journeys, and most of them have been much less crowded than this one was. Just the same we had a nice time, except when Jo decided to ask me if I was disappointed to be missing Shark Week while we were swimming in the ocean. Thanks again for that Jo! I impressed the girls with the knowledge that this was only my second time being fully immersed in the ocean ever! My first time was in PEI with Jess, and I always made sure she was between me and the open sea just in case of sharks. Sorry about that Jess. I don’t know what I would have done if there had actually been a shark and you had been attacked. At least I would have been vindicated. Anyway, we swam and lounged for a tick and then we had a nice lunch at a little restaurant along the shore (actually right beside the chairs we rented) and we decided that our waiter looked like he could have been a movie star. He just had that sort of quality about him. When we tired of our lounging, we caught the bus back to Fira, took showers to de-salt, and got all dolled up again to go to Oia and watch the sunset.

Oia is also very beautiful, but it was shocking how crowded it was! Obviously its reputation proceeded it, because it was quite the hunt to find a good place without an obstructed view to stand and watch the sun go down. It was also the first time in my life that I saw people applaud a sunset (first clocks, now the sun. What next?). It was actually pretty funny. The sunset was beautiful, but it would have been more enjoyable without the hordes of people. Anyway, after the sun went down we wandered a bit around Oia and then headed back to Fira, where we visited an internet café, and then Jo and I searched for an open grocery store to buy something light for supper. We ended up getting crackers, turkey, and cheese, with chocolate milk, ice tea for Erin, chips and nutella dip things. It was a pretty good meal, I have to say, but then I might have just been really hungry.

A view of Oia at dusk.

The next morning we packed up our stuff, put it in storage, and said goodbye to our little room. We then took the most treacherous trek of our entire Greece trip down to the port to catch a boat to the volcano at Nea Kameni. It was treacherous because there were, what seemed like, hundreds of donkeys everywhere we went! And they seemed especially interested in Erin. It’s true what Johanna says: animals flock to Erin, and these donkeys were no exception. I swear at one point we walked by and a group of them all turned their heads and stared at Erin. She was, quite understandably, terrified. We ultimately made it down alive (it was a long walk, made twice as long with threat of donkey trampling) with plenty of time to catch our boat, so we stopped and had a drink.

Our trip out to the volcano was okay, but it was hot, and I was dehydrated so I started to feel the stirrings of a migraine. It was worth it, though. It’s not the easiest walk in the world, because you are walking on volcanic ash, and it’s not a flat surface. I think we all slipped at least once. But during our walk we met some other Canadians, who were also from Ottawa, so that was pretty cool. The walk also took a bit longer than expected, so we made it back to our boat in just the nick of time. Next we were off to the hot springs at Palia Kameni. I would be lying if I said I enjoyed the hot springs. First of all, Greece is hot, so I’d prefer my swimming to be refreshing. Secondly, there was weird stuff floating around the surface, and I couldn’t shake the idea that lots of people were peeing in there.

A view from atop Nea Kameni

Erin and me on the boat on our way to the volcano. This one is going up in hopes that if Erin is in the picture, it might make it onto Mil's fridge.
After the hot spring, our boat trip was over so we went back to our hotel, showered, and then did some souvenir shopping. I thought I would like to buy a dress, but none of them looked good on me. They did, however, look nice on Erin, so Jo and I convinced her to buy it. It’s a really pretty white dress, that looks like something a Greek goddess would where. I told Erin she could wear it as a wedding dress to the joint beach wedding Jo is planning for the two of them and their respective beaus. Erin was not impressed with me for encouraging this line of discussion, but I think it’s pretty funny. Anyway, we all know Jo has to get married in Timmins, if only so all of her UNB friends can get the opportunity to visit the Shania Twain centre (she mentions this almost every time she mentions her wedding). We finished up with our last minute shopping, and we were soon on our way to the ferry (we got another ride from our awesome hotel owners) and we all reluctantly said goodbye to Santorini. Next time: Crete.

Jo readies herself for a night on the town in her purple dress and the head lamp that I now covet, because you never know when a night out will end in a spelunking expedition.
Jo and Erin in front of somebody's pretty house in Oia. Look how nice they look!